Workin' the Rudder HOBBS: 78.5 hrs

The rudder work is progressing...a little slowly, but we're getting there. I now have it dimpled, deburred, primed and cleco-ed back together awaiting rivets. The one thing holding me up is the top rib, near the trailing edge. As you can see from the pic, this is really tight and my rivet squeezer nor my 'pop rivet' die set will fit into this space so that I can dimple the last four holes. I ordered a vice grip dimpler specifically made for such tasks from Avery tools to tackle this job, it should be here in a day or two. Once it arrives, I will get those last dimples done and start riveting.

The rudder assembly poses a couple new skill sets, one of which is unique. Rolling the leading edge is new (I have done it previously in my SportAir class) but not unique as it will repeated on the elevators. The trailing edge construction is also new (also done in my RV building class), and is unique, as it is a skill that will not be repeated during the project. It is a little tricky to get a nice straight trailing edge (Van's recommends no more than 0.100" deviance from a straight line). I plan to use 'pro-seal' epoxy in conjuction with 'double flush' solid rivets as called out in the plans. There are a lot of examples of 'tricks' to help keep the trailing edge straight. I have borrowed a combination of some that I like. I am using two piece of aluminum angle that I bought from Home Depot. I match drilled them to my trailing edge. They serve two purposes, primarily to keep the trailing edge nice and straight...but also to aid in countersinking the aluminum AEX piece that sandwiches between the skins. Worked good so far, the end result will be the true barometer. I will say, to any builders out there that use this concept. Be careful to drill your holes straight through (perpendicular to the rudder centerline) instead of perpendicular to the skins like I did. It caused some of my holes in the farside skin to obround. I did a search on VAF and I found that I am not the only one to make this mistake. And the general concensus is on the forum, it will be ok since the pro-seal is added along with the rivets. Between the two, the trailing edge should be ok.

Here are the four holes (2 on each side) that I couldnt dimple with the tools I had. The vice grip dimplers should fit in here without a problem.

Cleco-ed together...match drilling holes

This is my trailing edge setup. Notice the alum angle pieces from Home Depot. I have it resting on a four foot level to check it for straightness...it looks perfect. This is where a nicely built flat table is important. If you look closely, you can see the AEX alumimum piece sandwiched between the skins.

Another full view of the setup cleco-ed together for match drilling.

This view shows the two flathead screws that hold my lead counterweight in place.

And a view from the other side showing the counterweight and mounting screws. I had to trim the weight slightly to fit in between the rivets.

Riveted nut plates on the main spar...

Counterbalance skin...

The bottom of the rudder

And a full view of the rudder awaiting rivets. It is a pretty large control surface, essentially the same size as the vertical stabilizer. This larger rudder was incorporated into the later -7 and -9 RV designs for greater rudder control authority. And since this is going to be a taildragger...I am a fan of more rudder control!!