Rudder Pedals HOBBS 932.5 hrs

I'm way behind in my blog posts...I've been more focused on actually working on the project lately rather than writing about it. Sometimes I get in that mood, I'm sure you can understand that sentiment. ;) There have been previous builders that have issues with the rudder pedal design binding/sticking when the brakes are pressed. Some think it is the Matco master cylinders that cause the problem and just add a return spring to them. The other thought is that the design, as is, might also be contributing. The plans call for two separate bolts to attach the rudder pedal to the bracket. Since you cant tighten them down (they act as pivot points) and they are independent of each other, you can easily get binding if its not done just right. One of the workarounds is to buy extra long bolts to span all the way across...definitely a more fundamentally sound design but those bolts run about $28 EACH, so almost $60 per set...plus shipping. So, I thought I can do this cheaper. Anyhow, here are some pics of my rudder pedal solution. Let me add, this is not my design idea--someone clever did this long before me.

First step, make a run to McGuckins hardware store in Boulder...absolutely LOVE this place, they are an old school hardware store...they have everything. Home Depot...not so much. I find these stainless steel rods, 3/16" for the rudder pedals and a 7/16" version that I will use to make homemade drift pins for my wing mating (more on that later). The 3/16" versions were $1.99 each...nice.

Getting the Grove master cylinders mounted in place.

I use a steel rule to set the brake pedals slightly biased forward for mounting. Not too big a deal to be exact because the Grove master cylinders are adjustable.

Here you can see the MC's in place and also my stainless steel rod design, looking good.

And here is a closeup of my solution, cotter pins have not been set yet as I still need to take this apart for anodizing and final riveting. You can see I used 1/8" nylon washers, regular washer and cotter pins on each side. I really like the way this came out...and it cost me around five dollars per brake pedal.

Moving on to the front deck, you have to add a slight bend to this part....several brackets to fabricate...some match drilling through the skin to some support brackets, etc. I will probably add access holes/covers (right about where my blue cleco bucket is sitting) for access to the area behind the panel later. Its a common modification for many builders these days.

If you're going to cleco the panel in place...you just GOTTA play a little bit! haha! Here you can see an idea of a panel (unlikely I'll go this route). It was just kind of neat to 'see' what things might look like down the road.

And, as you can see, I am jumping around quite a bit on several sub-projects...revisiting the flap motor assembly. I bolted this puppy in place, installed my cotter pin (don't forget that).

 

Finalized the lock nut....safety wire per Van's AD will also be added during final assembly.

And a parting shot...although I have been crawling in and out of the cockpit for a while now, here is my first actual picture of me sitting in the pilot's seat, kind of a builders tradition...having a beer admiring my handy work after a productive day.